You Won’t Forget This Pizza

If you haven’t heard of “Detroit-Style” pizza, pay attention: now you can get it in Tacoma.

Dean Shivers, owner of Tacoma Pie, has perfected one of the tastiest slices this writer has ever had the pleasure of tasting. While Shivers doesn’t claim to have invented the famous method that creates a thick, golden, delightfully crispy pizza crust, he does admit that he discovered it by accident.

Inspired by memories of late-night noshing on takeout pizza after shifts tending bar in San Francisco’s Italian district, he recently made it his mission to replicate some of those enticing pies. “I started playing around with it. One time, I was working to get the crust crispy on the bottom and fluffy in the middle, when some of the cheese accidentally spilled over onto the pan and created this crusty edge. Later, I found out I had stumbled on a style of pizza that already existed: the Detroit Style.”

When Shivers was laid off last year from his bartending job in Seattle because of COVID, he launched Tacoma Pie. He’s currently renting space and selling take-out from a commissary kitchen, Gourmet Niche. Fan response has been off the hook.

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